Ghost mannequin photography (also called the invisible mannequin or hollow-man effect) is a popular product photo style used in fashion eCommerce. It makes clothes look like they are being worn by an invisible model, showing shape, fit, and details without any distraction. This guide explains what it is, why brands use it, the gear and steps you need, editing tips, and how to get clean, professional results for your online store.
What is “ghost mannequin” photography?
Ghost mannequin photography makes clothing look like it’s worn by an invisible person. You shoot the garment on a mannequin, take a second photo of the inside areas, then edit the two images together. The result is a clean shape that shows fit, drape, and inside details, with no mannequin in the final picture.
Need help with the editing part? Send us your photos. We’ll do neck-joint, sleeve-joint, hem-joint, clean background to #FFFFFF, and deliver store-ready files.
Why use the ghost mannequin effect
- Shows real shape and fit without a model’s face or a bulky dummy.
- Clean and repeatable style for your whole catalog.
- Faster than model shoots and cheaper long-term.
- Boosts sales because shoppers can imagine the clothes on themselves.
Gear you need (budget → pro)
Mannequin options
- Half-body torso (most tops and dresses)
- Full-body (long coats, full dresses)
- Removable chest/neck/arms make editing easier
Camera & support
- DSLR/mirrorless camera • 50mm or 85mm lens
- Sturdy tripod (keeps framing the same for front/back)
Lighting
- 2 softboxes or LEDs (left/right) + 1 reflector (front/center)
- Optional boom light from above for even top light
Styling tools
- Pins and clips • double-sided tape • fishing line
- Lint roller • steamer/iron • tissue paper for shaping
Lighting & setup (simple “diagram”)
- Place the mannequin 1–1.5 m in front of a white backdrop.
- Put softbox A at 45° to the left, softbox B at 45° to the right, both slightly above chest level.
- Use a reflector or white foam board in front to fill shadows.
- Keep distances the same for front and back shots so size matches in editing.
Camera settings that work
- Aperture: f/8–f/11 (sharp and deep enough for clothing)
- ISO: 100–200 (clean image)
- Shutter: 1/125–1/200 with flash/LEDs (no blur)
- White balance: 5600K (daylight) or custom grey card
- Shoot RAW for best color control
Step-by-step shooting workflow
- Prep the garment: Steam wrinkles. Remove dust with a lint roller. Button or zip fully.
- Dress the mannequin: Fit the garment snugly. Use pins/clips on the back to shape the waist and shoulders.
- Shoot the front: Frame straight on. Keep the camera mid-chest height. Take 2–3 shots (safety).
- Shoot the back: Turn the mannequin without moving the camera or lights.
- Shoot the “inside” pieces :
For tops: place the garment inside-out on a board and photograph the neck lining and inner label area.
For long sleeves or hoods: shoot inside fabric that will become the sleeve/hood opening.
For dresses/skirts: photograph the inner hem if it will show. - Detail shots (optional): Buttons, zippers, pockets, textures.
Tip: Keep file names clear: SKU_front, SKU_back, SKU_neck, SKU_sleeve, SKU_hem.
Editing workflow (simple and fast)
- Choose base image (front). Open in Photoshop (or similar).
- Cut out the garment: use the Pen tool, Object Selection, or channel mask.
- Add inside pieces:
- Place the neck photo under the base layer.
- Create a layer mask on the base and reveal the neck lining.
- Repeat for sleeves and hems if needed.
- Clean edges
- Fix corners with the Pen tool.
- Remove flyaway threads and dust.
- Shape & symmetry: Use Liquify for minor fixes (waist, shoulder height).
- Color & exposure: Match to the real product. Use a grey card shot if you have one.
- Natural shadow (optional): Soft oval shadow under the garment (low opacity, blur).
- Background to pure white: Set background to #FFFFFF (RGB 255,255,255).
Export for eCommerce (Shopify / Amazon / others)
- Crop & aspect ratio: follow platform rules (often 1:1 or 4:5).
- Size: long edge 2000–3000 px (zoom ready).
- Background: #FFFFFF when required.
- Margins: keep the product centered with 4–8% padding.
- Format: JPG (quality 80–90) for stores; PNG for transparency.
Quality checklist (run this before upload)
- Wrinkles gone, hems straight, labels hidden (unless needed)
- No harsh shadows or bright hotspots
- Color looks true-to-life on a calibrated screen
- Edges clean; no halos from cutout
- Background pure white; margins consistent across the set
- Front/back scale matches; sleeves even
Troubleshooting
- White shirts look see-through → Add fill light and a white card behind fabric, or expose slightly brighter and fix color later.
- Black clothes lose detail → Raise light a bit; use a reflector; lift shadows in RAW.
- Jagged edges → Use a higher-quality selection (Pen tool) and feather 0.3–0.5 px.
- Color shifts → Set custom white balance with a grey card; avoid mixed lighting.
- Crooked hems → Check the mannequin stand; nudge with Liquify.
DIY vs Hire (simple comparison)
| Task | DIY | Hire VectorWiz |
| Shooting | You control style; time-heavy | You shoot; we advise setup if needed |
| Cutouts & joints | Learning curve; hours of edits | Fast neck/sleeve/hem joints |
| Color & cleanup | Risk of mismatches | Color-true, clean edges |
| Consistency | Hard across big catalogs | Template-consistent crops/margins |
| Cost | Lower cash, higher time | Fixed price per image; fast turnaround |
FAQs on Ghost Mannequin Product Photography
Is “ghost mannequin” the same as “invisible mannequin” or “hollow-man”?
Yes. These names all mean removing the mannequin in editing so the clothing looks worn by an invisible person.
Can I use a hanger instead of a mannequin?
It works for quick shots, but shape is flatter. A mannequin gives better fit and drape.
What lens is best?
A 50mm or 85mm prime. They keep shapes natural and sharp.
Do I need three lights?
Two softboxes are enough for most items. Use a reflector for fill.
How long does editing take?
Once you’re practiced, simple tops can take 5–10 minutes each. Or send them to us for faster delivery.